​​Intention, care, and community. ​We want to find out what inspires Gen-Z designers. Claudia Da Silva spoke to two young Capetonian designers, Megan Art, and Maryam Argheriden, who think consciously when creating their one-of-a-kind garments.  ​Their conscious approach to fashion design shows us how Gen-Z designers are contributing to ethical fashion design habits. ​ 

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​​​Sustainability has ​become a buzzword ​in the fashion industry​,​ with ​increasing ​concerns ​about​​​ fashion​’s​ ​​environmental and social impact.  ​W​​​hen it comes to ​awareness ​around the fashion industry’s environmental impact, conscious movements are ​​slowly forg​ing​​​ a distinctive voice ​and ​advocating for sustainable fashion practices​​. As of 2022 it has been found that 68% of the  growth of sustainability has been driven by younger generations like Gen-Z.  

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​​​South Africa’s local sustainable fashion scene is vibrant​,​ with a large part of its influence coming from younger designers. If you look at established 2020 LVMH winner, Sindiso Khumalo who is known for design with bold colour and prints that spark joy and playfulness, Khumalo is a perfect example of where South African fashion stands currently.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Young designers are looking towards similar themes of colour, nostalgia, and playfulness to reiterate a South African point-of-view. Gen-Z is often ​considered ​​​to be more sensitive when it comes to dealing and thinking about the pressures of the world. ​Social media is abuzz with speculation about the e​​​nvironmental and social injustices ​of ​the fast fashion industry​​, ​​heighten​ing​​​ awareness ​about ​​​sustainability. Because of this, Gen-Z designers are prioritising community, intention, and care in their design practices​, ​​​go​ing​ ​against ​a ​fast-paced fashion industry.​

 

​​​​T​​​here are often misconceptions a​bout ​​​ what​ sustainability​ ​actually ​​​means. Gen-Z’s perception of fashion brings in layers of understanding ​about​​​ what it means to be sustainable, thinking about ​people first,​ which inevitably prioritises the significance of the environment. Gen-Z cultivates a ​community ​and care ​central to their creative process​.  A “one for all, all for one” type of mentality. 

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​​​​​Maryam Arghedien is an advanced diploma fashion student who has spent the last ​​​four​​​ years ​​​educating herself on creating in a low​​​-​​​​​​​impact manner​. Her ​creative outlet ​is called ‘fashion students archive’ where she designs u​nique wearable items​ that are created using textile waste​​. For her, re-using textile waste and reconstructing materials into new pieces i​s the only way to be ​a designer, “I think it’s more of a way of life than something that inspired me. The collection I’ve been working on this year is called ‘the need for less’.”  

 

Megan ​​​​Art is a fashion design graduate who started her brand​​ ARTFIT to combine her love for art, fashion, and sustainability into one unique perspective of design.  She began with a commitment to herself and others when starting ARTFIT to never buy new fabric, to use what she has, or rather buy second-hand. By ​making a commitment to sustainably​ she has learnt and shown others through her designs that limitations matter when people and the environment are at stake, “It's just about making better choices and understanding your responsibility as a designer.” 

​​​​S​tarting their studies in design school​​ was​​n​’​​​t just the beginning of their conscious thinking. Both Gen-Z designers think of how their ​​upbringings impact the ways in which they design sustainably, by focusing on reducing waste and re-using waste. As Maryam recalls, “I’ve taken this year to ponder on where the need to do more while creating less waste stems from and have realised that it’s something I grew up witnessing in my family.” Creating sustainably becomes more of a lifestyle for them, naturally thinking about the life of their creations from beginning to end.  

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One might assume that fashion design school builds ego and revolves around building a money-making brand, yet ​​both Gen-Z designers found themselves coming to an understanding of how challenging it is to begin from nothing, “From my own experience, inspiration mostly happens when you don't have something, so you need to make something out of nothing,” says Maryam. Both designers use existing clothing, or interior textiles to re-create their own looks. In fashion school those who are not lucky enough to buy expensive materials are blessed with a challenge to be innovative and rethink their design processes.  

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For both designers the sourcing of their fabric is intentional and depends on what textiles and materials they can source. Maryam talks about building relationships with local dressmakers and CMTs to use what would have been their production waste material. The relationships that Gen-Z designers forge with existing industry workers is a special one. By thinking differently about where you source your material from y​​ou positively influence the way the industry runs entirely.  

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Being a Gen-Z sustainable fashion designer means ​​​​​push​​​ing​​​ boundaries and reject​ing what is deemed new and fresh in the fashion industry. ​​For Gen-Z consumers however, it still seems that social media’s fashion micro-trends ​take top spo​t.  Following trends is the opposite of sustainable fashion’s mission. Trends are only temporary and do not exist to inspire. Even saying so, Gen-Z designers do not believe that the monopoly of fast fashion  is entirely the consumer’s fault, “We unfortunately live in a country that is very poor and therefore the very expensive options are not a possibility for those that cannot afford it,” says Megan. The blame is to be put on larger fast fashion industry titans that over-produces to feed over-consumption. ​​Gen-Z designers want people to recognize that ​buying into large corporations​ o​​nly does more harm to the environment. The issue often lies in the public’s lack of understanding and resources, “One can be informed over and over again but the choice to take the sustainable option is exactly that​:​​​ a choice,” Maryam explains.  

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Sustainable fashion seems to be in an endless battle with conspicuous consumption. As the future generation, Gen-Z are expected to do something meaningful to combat over-consumption. Something alternative to what exists already. Gen-Z’s sustainable fashion designers ​​​are alternative, “My only advice would be to live differently, be daring and choose to be unique,” says Megan​. The clothing pieces they design and make have a life, the materials are pre-loved and live on to be re-constructed for someone else to wear and love.  

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Living and working as a young local designer has its challenges, and being a sustainable designer is a full-time job. Every design has a message, ​and ​despite how mediocre and mundane it may seem, the practice of being intentional and careful about what you put out into the world is ​​brave because it sets an example on how to live and think differently from social norms. Existing in​ fast-paced world, driven by economy​, putting people and their spaces first is an alternative way of creating. The fashion industry ​is always on the lookout for what’s new​, to ​shake up the industry​. 

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